Travel Journal - Budapest Travel Journal: Chain Bridges, Full Moon Magic & Thermal Bath Dreams
Before we left, I remember Brandon sending me a Buzzfeed article about “20 travel hacks.” Amongst them were the usual: use a glasses case to keep your cords and headphones organized, roll your T-shirts into travel cubes to save space—but one in particular took me by surprise.
It was the last one:
“When you leave a country and head towards a new currency, leave your change with the homeless.”
Duh. Why hadn't I thought of this before?
We were, for the most part, staying within the Eurozone, but we would undoubtedly encounter a country with its own currency. Budapest was the first one.
Arrival in Budapest: A Rough Landing
We arrived at the train station without any Hungarian Forints, no idea where our hostel was located, and—shockingly—no WiFi to figure it all out. We went to the nearest McDonald’s, swindled the lady at the door into letting us use their restrooms, and fought with three or four different kiosks before one accepted our cards.
Eventually, we caught what we believed to be a bus headed in our general direction.
This was the first—of a few times—that I almost got us arrested. Each country has their own rules for checking tickets. In San Francisco, we can use our Clipper card, or pay at the front, or use a transfer, or ask the guy next to us. Not all places in the world share this understanding.
As the officer boarded the bus, I saw him make direct eye contact with me. Maybe it was the giant backpack I shared my small seat with that gave me away. He came right up to me, I handed him my ticket—which didn’t have the proper hole punches, apparently—and he proceeded to yell at me in Hungarian and point toward the door.
I’m still unsure what made him change his mind. Either he was feeling kind, or I got to my stop before he kicked us out. Either way, I learned quickly that not all bus rides are equal.
Full Moon Design Hostel: A Safe Landing
Ever since I can remember, I’ve had this obsession with the moon.
“La lune, la lune, mammy!” I used to call out as a child, every time we were outside at night.
In middle school, I remember studying the phases of the moon as if it were the most important lesson of all. And over the years, it’s become a sort of “check” in my life. No matter where I am in the world, no matter what situation has been thrown my way, as long as I look up and the moon is there, there is no ego, no pain—just la lune.
When we arrived at our hostel, Full Moon Design Hostel, I felt right at home. It was clean, colorful, and it had a kitchen, laundry, and the most exciting part of all—a club downstairs so we didn’t have to go very far to party. Morrison 2.
Fisherman’s Bastion & the Buda Side
We spent our first full day wandering through town, across the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, which spans the Danube between Buda and Pest. We walked up the cobblestone streets, through secret gardens, and up to Fisherman’s Bastion.
There are seven turrets in the fortress to represent the seven Hungarian tribes who founded present-day Hungary in 895. The entrance and balconies are free to roam, and a café on the terrace housed some adorable couples sipping an afternoon espresso or enjoying an early glass of champagne.
Protected by the guild of fishermen during the Middle Ages, the Bastion truly deserves its place atop Buda Castle Hill, with sweeping views of Buda Castle, the Danube riverfront, and the Chain Bridge.
After pretending to be trapped in every tower and nook, we followed the crowd behind the castle, through some dreamy gardens and across some very questionable bridges, and into Budapest Castle. Now I know why they call this place a fortress—it took us longer than I’d like to admit to find our way back down. (In our defense, the elevator was broken, and a lot of the exits were dead ends.)
Rainy Day Magic & the Thermal Bath Experience
The next day, we took a walking tour, where we ended up being the only guests—and it rained the whole time. But it made for a pretty magical day in the end. I was feeling a bit under the weather, trying everything not to let a cold ruin the trip.
At the end of a long walk filled with stories of Hungarian history, wars, and revolutions, we finally arrived at the place I’d been waiting for: the thermal baths.
We went to Széchenyi Thermal Bath, the largest medicinal bath in Europe, supplied by two natural hot springs. From the outside, it looks like a baroque palace, but inside, it’s a peaceful retreat for tired travelers and locals alike.
Even in the summer, the baths stay open late—perfect for night swims—and on Saturdays, the place turns into a spa party (yes, really).
On my worst days, I think about this moment. It still brings a smile to my face.
At the back of the swimming pool is another warm pool with 106°F waters. And no matter what time of day, there are always men playing chess in the steaming water. We soaked there for a while, before heading inside to explore the 15 other pools, each with its own vibe, size, and temperature. If you’re feeling bold, you can even try the cold plunge pools. (I wasn’t that brave.)
Last Night in Budapest
On our walk home, wet from rain but full from a hearty meal, we passed a few more historical landmarks, then headed to the airport. Brandon was formally introduced to the world of the duty-free shop and the chaotic magic of flying Ryanair.
See you in the morning, Roma.
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Full Moon Design Hostel
