Travel Journal: Prague, Czech Republic — Beer, Architecture, and a Rooftop View
Train: $49.50. Metro to hostel: $1.10. Foot massage from your bestie: PRICELESS.
Have I already mentioned how much I love the trains in Europe? There’s something magical about watching the scenery shift every time you glance out the window—fields, forests, cities, then suddenly, you’re somewhere entirely new. Decoding the language of the family in your train cabin? Always makes for a fun game.
I can say with complete certainty: Prague was my favorite city on this entire tour of Europe—and for two simple reasons: the beer and the architecture.
Getting to Prague & Where We Stayed
We took a train from Berlin to Prague for about $50, then hopped on the metro to our hostel for just over a dollar. We stayed at Rosemary Hostel, and it was one of our favorite finds—located right across from the metro station and only a few blocks from Old Town Prague.
Even better, we were lucky enough to stay in the rooftop room, complete with a small kitchen, a cozy patio, and large skylights that flooded the room with morning light and the soft sounds of rain at night. It was dreamy.
Booking on the Go with Hostelworld
Although I had planned the first few cities before leaving home, we quickly fell into a rhythm of using the Hostelworld app to book accommodations on the fly. It was a lifesaver—especially when yesterday’s review says, “BED BUGS! DON’T STAY HERE!” Real-time reviews from travelers just like us? Essential.
For the most part, we were lucky. The fellow travelers we met at Rosemary Hostel were kind and welcoming. One night, we even ventured out to Cross Club—an industrial, multi-story nightclub made from nuts, bolts, gears, and (what looked like) old ski lift seats. Trippy and unforgettable.
Day One: The Astronomical Clock and Old Town Prague
On our first full day, we wandered through Old Town Prague, getting our bearings and soaking in the charm of every alley and square. At the top of every hour, crowds gather around the famous Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square—and we were no exception.
This 15th-century marvel features:
An astronomical dial, showing the position of the sun and moon
“The Walk of the Apostles,” a mini show every hour
A calendar dial with zodiac medallions
As someone who’s a bit obsessed with the moon and stars, I loved it—especially since it was right next to all the gelato carts. Coincidence? Probably not.
Day Two: Free Walking Tour & Hidden History
On our second day, just as in Berlin, we opted for a free walking tour and were completely overwhelmed with the beauty in Old Town. Prague is one of the only cities that was not affected by the happenings of WWII, so although most the Eastern European countries we visited were covered in bullet holes and war stories, Prague is perfectly intact. The tall and skinny buildings in the center square of Old Town reminded me a bit of San Francisco.
What blew my mind is that these buildings are so clean, well maintained, and hundreds of years old. The entire city of San Francisco is barely 200 years old and looks much more run down. Some of the buildings are on a less than solid foundation and seem to tilt forward a bit, which gave them a bit of character. We walked through side streets, stopped for coffee and a croissant with our tour group, saw some of the old schools where art had been hidden during the war. Then we happened upon a small synagogue, just before we reached one of Prague's most expensive and bustling shopping streets. Our guide explained that this synagogue has been holding their Saturday service, every single week, since 1280. Talk about creatures of habit. Nothing helps calm my fear of growing old like a synagogue making my mere 25 years on this earth seem irrelevant.
Day Three: Beer Heaven at Pivovarský Klub
On day three, rain and sore feet guided us to Pivovarský Klub, a hidden gem recommended by a college friend who studied abroad in Prague. With over 240 beers and 6 rotating taps, it’s a beer lover’s dream. Naturally, I started at the top of the list.
We enjoyed homey Czech cuisine and shared a traditional charcuterie board. Because the way to a girl’s heart? Always through good meat and cheese.
Day Four: Prague Castle & City Views
Every day, we passed through the same charming alleyways into Old Town and across the iconic Charles Bridge. On our final day, we decided to find Prague Castle. With no real map, we simply crossed the bridge and headed for the highest hill we could see.
The uphill climb through cobblestone streets was no joke, but the view from the top? Worth every step. We explored the castle grounds, wandered through lush gardens, and visited St. Vitus Cathedral (free to enter!), which houses some of the most mesmerizing stained glass windows I’ve ever seen.
Why I Fell in Love with Prague
It’s funny—when you're backpacking, you usually only spend 3-4 days in a city. But sometimes, that’s enough for a place to feel like home.
On Day 1, you’re wide-eyed and disoriented.
Day 2, things begin to feel familiar.
By Day 3 or 4, you’re giving directions and recommending cafés to fellow travelers.
Then, just like that—you pack your bags and move on.
Sbohem Praha, I'll be back.