Travel Journal: Three Days in Munich — Beer Gardens, Biking & Bucket List Dreams

in

Three short days in Munich with so much to see and even more to do. Run fast!

We arrived in Munich midday, with a rough idea of where we were staying and a few lifesaving map screenshots. One of the first lessons you learn while backpacking and relying solely on Wi-Fi: you don’t have any during your transit—or when you land in a new city and need to find your way to your home base. Cue the brilliant travel hack: screenshot your itinerary, train tickets, and walking directions before you lose signal. A tip we learned quickly... and forgot just as fast. Yet somehow, we always made it.

This time, though, we weren't staying in a hostel. We had the joy of crashing with friends of friends—Sven and Sophie. Yes, actual human beings with the most adorably German names ever.

Home Away from Hostel: Sven & Sophie’s Place

After a bit of confusion over their ETA, which buzzer was theirs, some hotel-hopping to steal Wi-Fi, and an extra helping of schnitzel, we finally climbed the five flights of stairs to their charming Munich apartment. It was a backpacker’s dream—a free stay, yes, but even better: it felt like home.

Their place looked like it was pulled straight from an IKEA catalogue. Every night, they cooked and ate dinner with friends. They gave us tips on where to find a traditional dirndl for Oktoberfest, and made us feel completely welcome. I was one happy girl.

Day One: Bike Tour of Munich

We went to bed early, ready to make the most of the weekend. With only a short time in Munich, we devoted Saturday to exploring the city, saving Sunday for the main event: Oktoberfest.

That morning, we borrowed bikes from the neighbors, and the four of us—Sven, Sophie, Brandon and I—set off on a cycling adventure. After walking our way through Berlin and Prague, biking felt revolutionary. And in Munich, bikes practically have the right of way. Honestly, I still don't know where pedestrians are supposed to walk—most sidewalks are really just bike lanes.

First Stop: Olympiapark

 I must admit, Sven and Sophie knew so much about the history of their city, it made me question if I would be an equally awesome tour guide, if someone were to come stay with me in San Francisco. Nonetheless, I was thankful to have them and listened with open ears and a full heart, as we cycled our way through the city. Olympiapark was constructed for the 1972 Summer Olympics. It's located in an area of Munich known as the "Oberwiesenfeld" or "upper meadow-field" which is essentially what we biked through to get to it. My favorite part about the German language is that they simply smush words together, and are not phased by how long they become. I imagine it would make learning the language a bit simpler, since you can basically dissect each word into smaller parts. To this day, Olympiapark serves as a venue for cultural and social events. We rode to the top of the hill (mountain), where Sven pointed out his apartment, as well as the view of the Schwimmhalle, park, pond and communication tower.
From the summit, Sven pointed out landmarks like the Schwimmhalle, the Olympic pond, and Munich’s towering Fernsehturm (communications tower). It's awesome. Each eastern European city seems to have one. They all look a little different, but they all serve the same purpose; helping Stephanie navigate where the heck she is.

Second Stop: The English Garden & Chinesischer Turm

After conquering the hill, we agreed on one thing: we deserved a beer. Next stop? The English Garden (Englischer Garten), Munich’s largest public park. And by large, I mean 1,030 acres—bigger than both Hyde Park in London and Central Park in New York City. We biked through lush trees, over rivers, across bridges, and eventually arrived at one of the most iconic spots in the garden: the Chinesischer Turm, or Chinese Tower beer garden.

The beer garden is named for the 18th-century wooden pagoda at its center, originally built in 1790, destroyed during World War II, and later rebuilt. Today, Chinesischer Turm is the second-largest beer garden in Munich, seating over 7,500 people.

We feasted on:

  • Steckerlfisch (grilled fish on a stick)

  • Hendl (roast chicken)

  • Schweinshaxn (roasted pork knuckle—so good)

  • Obatzda (a spiced cheese delicacy)

  • Auszogne (fried pastry dough)

Watching Sven and Sophie try to translate the menu to us was hilarious, but if there’s one universal language—it’s food. The pretzels were literally the size of our heads, and the beers? Only €7. And yes, we kept the mugs. (Are you supposed to? Who’s to say.)

Post beer and lunch, Brandon and I continued to explore the city by bike, crossing rivers and bridges to unknown landmarks and finally ending in the center of town for some shopping, and a nap on a large plot of grass. Win.
  

Afternoon Wandering & Sunset Naps

After lunch and a few beers, Brandon and I continued biking through the city. We crossed more rivers, stumbled upon unmarked landmarks, and eventually found ourselves in the city center. We shopped a little, then collapsed into a sun-soaked nap on a massive grassy field. Bliss.

Day Two: The Magic of Oktoberfest

Sunday came like Christmas morning. Oktoberfest had always been on my bucket list, but I never thought it would happen so soon. And here I was—in Munich, wearing a dirndl, surrounded by good friends, ready to experience it firsthand.

We started the day with a traditional Bavarian breakfast:

  • Weisswurst (white sausage)

  • Sweet mustard

  • Freshly baked pretzels

  • Weissbier (because beer for breakfast is totally acceptable at Oktoberfest)

We rode our bikes to the festival grounds, wandered the colorful fair, and finally entered the most epic bier tent I’ve ever seen. Inside, it was one big party: we sang, we drank, we ate, and we sang again.

Ein Prosit to Friendship and Gemütlichkeit

The tent echoed with the German drinking song:

Ein Prosit, ein Prosit
Der Gemütlichkeit!
Ein Prosit, ein Prosit
Der Gemütlichkeit!

Then, the shout:

OANS! ZWOA! DREI! G'SUFFA! (One, two, three—drink!)

I clutched my crumpled-up piece of paper with the phonetic spelling and did my best:

Ayn praw-seet, ayn praw-seet
Dare gay-moot-lich-kite!

As I looked around at Sven, Sophie, Brandon, and the thousands of strangers who somehow felt like family, I thought: Do we really have to leave?
Can’t we just stay a few more days?

But alas, the journey continues. There’s still so much more adventuring to do.

Until Next Time, Munich

Munich, with your sprawling beer gardens, bike-loving streets, and open-hearted people—you were an absolute dream.

I’ll be back.

Travel Journal: Prague, Czech Republic — Beer, Architecture, and a Rooftop View

in

Train: $49.50. Metro to hostel: $1.10. Foot massage from your bestie: PRICELESS.

Have I already mentioned how much I love the trains in Europe? There’s something magical about watching the scenery shift every time you glance out the window—fields, forests, cities, then suddenly, you’re somewhere entirely new. Decoding the language of the family in your train cabin? Always makes for a fun game.

I can say with complete certainty: Prague was my favorite city on this entire tour of Europe—and for two simple reasons: the beer and the architecture.

Getting to Prague & Where We Stayed

We took a train from Berlin to Prague for about $50, then hopped on the metro to our hostel for just over a dollar. We stayed at Rosemary Hostel, and it was one of our favorite finds—located right across from the metro station and only a few blocks from Old Town Prague.

Even better, we were lucky enough to stay in the rooftop room, complete with a small kitchen, a cozy patio, and large skylights that flooded the room with morning light and the soft sounds of rain at night. It was dreamy.

Booking on the Go with Hostelworld

Although I had planned the first few cities before leaving home, we quickly fell into a rhythm of using the Hostelworld app to book accommodations on the fly. It was a lifesaver—especially when yesterday’s review says, “BED BUGS! DON’T STAY HERE!” Real-time reviews from travelers just like us? Essential.

For the most part, we were lucky. The fellow travelers we met at Rosemary Hostel were kind and welcoming. One night, we even ventured out to Cross Club—an industrial, multi-story nightclub made from nuts, bolts, gears, and (what looked like) old ski lift seats. Trippy and unforgettable.

Day One: The Astronomical Clock and Old Town Prague

On our first full day, we wandered through Old Town Prague, getting our bearings and soaking in the charm of every alley and square. At the top of every hour, crowds gather around the famous Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square—and we were no exception.

This 15th-century marvel features:

  • An astronomical dial, showing the position of the sun and moon

  • “The Walk of the Apostles,” a mini show every hour

  • A calendar dial with zodiac medallions

As someone who’s a bit obsessed with the moon and stars, I loved it—especially since it was right next to all the gelato carts. Coincidence? Probably not.


Day Two: Free Walking Tour & Hidden History


On our second day, just as in Berlin, we opted for a free walking tour and were completely overwhelmed with the beauty in Old Town. Prague is one of the only cities that was not affected by the happenings of WWII, so although most the Eastern European countries we visited were covered in bullet holes and war stories, Prague is perfectly intact. The tall and skinny buildings in the center square of Old Town reminded me a bit of San Francisco.

What blew my mind is that these buildings are so clean, well maintained, and hundreds of years old. The entire city of San Francisco is barely 200 years old and looks much more run down. Some of the buildings are on a less than solid foundation and seem to tilt forward a bit, which gave them a bit of character. We walked through side streets, stopped for coffee and a croissant with our tour group, saw some of the old schools where art had been hidden during the war. Then we happened upon a small synagogue, just before we reached one of Prague's most expensive and bustling shopping streets. Our guide explained that this synagogue has been holding their Saturday service, every single week, since 1280. Talk about creatures of habit. Nothing helps calm my fear of growing old like a synagogue making my mere 25 years on this earth seem irrelevant.

Day Three: Beer Heaven at Pivovarský Klub

On day three, rain and sore feet guided us to Pivovarský Klub, a hidden gem recommended by a college friend who studied abroad in Prague. With over 240 beers and 6 rotating taps, it’s a beer lover’s dream. Naturally, I started at the top of the list.

We enjoyed homey Czech cuisine and shared a traditional charcuterie board. Because the way to a girl’s heart? Always through good meat and cheese.

Day Four: Prague Castle & City Views

Every day, we passed through the same charming alleyways into Old Town and across the iconic Charles Bridge. On our final day, we decided to find Prague Castle. With no real map, we simply crossed the bridge and headed for the highest hill we could see.

The uphill climb through cobblestone streets was no joke, but the view from the top? Worth every step. We explored the castle grounds, wandered through lush gardens, and visited St. Vitus Cathedral (free to enter!), which houses some of the most mesmerizing stained glass windows I’ve ever seen.

Why I Fell in Love with Prague

It’s funny—when you're backpacking, you usually only spend 3-4 days in a city. But sometimes, that’s enough for a place to feel like home.

On Day 1, you’re wide-eyed and disoriented.
Day 2, things begin to feel familiar.
By Day 3 or 4, you’re giving directions and recommending cafés to fellow travelers.

Then, just like that—you pack your bags and move on.

Sbohem Praha, I'll be back.